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Mike_Johnson_OCHI.jpg (7877 bytes)An Inspection Question:

What can I do about basement moisture problems?

Q: How can I determine whether the basement leaks?

A: Sooner or later, most basements in damp areas leak to some extent. Leaks may be seasonal or may only appear when heavy rain conditions have existed for some time. First check any penetration at or below grade: window wells and outside cellar stairwells frequently admit water. Look for cracks in the wall or in the mortar joints between cinder blocks. Examine the bases of items stored in the basement for water stains and rust. Other vulnerable spots are the joints between the wall and floor, tie-rod holes, and at the bases of steel support posts. One sign that there has been water seepage in the past is the presence of efflorescence, which appears as a light-colored powdery deposit on the wall or floor. It is the result of mineral salts, originally part of the concrete or masonry, dissolving in the water as it migrates through, and remaining on the surface after the water evaporates.

Q: I have quite a bit of water leaking through my basement wall in the rainy season. What can I do?

A: There are many possible contributing factors when looking for a solution to basement leaks. A sensible strategy in my opinion would be to address the easier and less expensive possibilities first and hope for improvement. Here are some suggestions, listed from lesser to greater effort and expense:

  • First, clean all gutters and be sure that water from downspouts is directed at least ten feet (more is better) from the foundation wall with good quality drainpipe. Use a garden hose to test existing underground gutter discharge drains.
  • Remove excess vegetation next to the house.
  • Remove large roots, which can channel water to the foundation.
  • Seal all exterior asphalt or concrete driveways, decks, and steps where they join the house.
  • Fill the (accessible) voids where soil has settled under stoops and slabs.
  • Fix any hose sillcocks that drip.
  • Install awnings over cellar stairwells.
  • If there is no way to direct water away from the home’s perimeter, it may be necessary to install a sump pump to collect and eject water.
  • Redirect the water flowing from a slope above the house using a swale, which is a gentle, shallow ditch. (See illustration below)
  • Install a French (curtain) drain around the uphill perimeter of the house to intercept and redirect sub-surface water before it reaches the foundation wall.

Q: Is there a way to seal out the water from the inside?

A: Yes and no. No foundation wall can serve as a dam - keeping out water that builds up high above it’s footings. There are several products on the market that are sold to stop basement leaks by creating a seal on the interior surface of the wall or floor. If the problem is very minor or occasional, they may be effective in reducing moisture and attendant humidity in basement spaces. In my opinion, though, they should not be used to try to contain a significant volume of water infiltration. The reason is that when interior leak prevention efforts are successful, the foundation wall can be damaged by excess water. Saturated walls can expand and be weakened by freezing. It may cause spalling (surface deterioration) or weakening of mortar joints. It may also cause the reinforcing steel to rust, and moisture may be wicked up into the wood structure, possibly causing rot. It may cause increased condensation and humidity in the room.In all, concentrating on good surface and subsurface drainage, and keeping the water at a distance to begin with is much preferable to attempts at interior "waterproofing".

swale.jpg (42343 bytes)  

When the overall grade is toward the house, a swale or shallow ditch can be used to direct water away from the foundation.