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Mike_Johnson_OCHI.jpg (7877 bytes)An Inspection Question:

What is a TPR Valve?

Q: What is the brass valve on the side of my water heater for?

A: It’s called a TPR valve. All water heaters have a relief valve that is sensitive to both temperature and pressure. They are designed so that if the pressure inside the tank exceeds 150 lbs./sq. in., or the temperature exceeds 210 degrees, the valve will open and let some of the overheated water out. This lets cold water into the tank and decreases temperature and pressure. The valve stays open as long as the temperature or pressure exceeds those limits. While a tank failure from overpressure alone will cause water damage, a rupture due to the combination of temperature and pressure can be very dangerous.

Q: What is the danger?

A: It’s physics. Water in the heater is always pressurized by the force in the supply line, so it can be heated to well above the 212 degrees that it takes to boil water at sea level and still be liquid.  At 50 psi, the temperature of the water could reach 300 degrees or more. If a faulty thermostat fails to turn off the power when the tank is hot, the resulting overpressure could rupture the tank. The sudden decrease in air pressure to atmospheric conditions would cause the superheated water in the tank to explosively flash into a huge volume of steam.  In fact, 50 gallons of water could create 80,000 gallons of steam, or about five times the total volume of a typical 2000 sq. ft home.

Q: How should the valve be mounted?

A: To work properly, the element of the valve should be immersed in the top 6" of water in the tank, (from the side or top) and not in the hot water outlet pipe. The relief valve should have an extension or discharge tube that directs the overheated water down to the floor and away from anyone who might be in the area to prevent scalding or burning. The size of the pipe must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually ¾ inch), and should not be capped, threaded, or obstructed. The tube should terminate between 6 and 12 inches from the floor or be directed to the exterior of the home.

Q: Are they all the same?

A: No, they are available in different heat ratings. Be sure that the heat rating of the TPR valve (expressed in BTU/Hr.) exceeds the BTU rating of the water heater. If the capacity is less, the relief valve will not be able to discharge the overheated water at the same rate that it is produced, creating an unsafe condition. Look for BTU ratings on the nameplate mounted on the valve (the AGA number), and on the data plate mounted on the side or top of the water heater casing.

Q: Will my Home Inspector test the TPR valve?

TPR Valve.jpg (9985 bytes)A: Your inspector should examine the TPR to determine that it is correctly installed and has a drain tube that is unobstructed and set up to discharge appropriately. He will also note any visible defect or corrosion. He will not actuate the valve unless a technically exhaustive inspection is called for. The problem is that TPRs cannot be tested under high pressure or temperature in a home setting. They can be tested to see if the valve will release water by lifting the lever on top of the valve, but frequently the valve will not reseat and turn off when the lever is released. Therefore it is not typically done.

Q: If excess pressure can create a hazard and the valve can’t be tested, what do you recommend?

A: Don’t panic! A water heater that is equipped with a properly installed TPR valve and discharge tube is quite safe. One reason is that the TPR has a built-in failsafe: it contains two independent mechanisms to limit tank pressure to safe levels.

Q: What is involved in replacing the TPR Valve?

A: They are inexpensive (about $15) and can be replaced by a plumbing contractor in less than an hour.